A Better Way to Handle Your Homag Infrared Heaters
If you’re running Homag edgebanders, you already know the deal. The infrared heating zone is usually where things go south. If that bond isn’t perfect, everything else is a waste of time. We got tired of the OEM price tags, so we built our own replacement lamp. It does exactly what the original does—matches the thermal footprint and handles the grind of a busy shop—but it won’t break your bank. The technical side of things We don’t guess on the specs. We build these to hit the exact wattage and voltage your power supply expects. Because these are high-wattage shortwave lamps, they throw a tight beam of energy. That means your adhesive hits the right temperature in a fraction of a second. Whether you’re on a 230V or 400V system, we’ve tuned the tungsten filament so the heat stays steady. No flickering, no “cold spots,” and definitely no more worrying about delamination. Built for the heat Heat is a killer. To stop the tubes from warping when things get scorching, we use high-purity quartz glass. We also use standard R7s or SK15 connectors. Why? Because nobody wants to spend an hour fighting with a housing just to get a lamp installed. It should just click in. Plus, some of our versions have a special coating that pushes the heat forward. This keeps the inside of your machine from getting baked. Real talk from the shop floor This is a true drop-in replacement. You’ll get the same heat-up time and the same rock-solid bond you’re used to. But here’s a tip: if you’re pushing these lamps to the limit, the housing is going to get hot.**Keep your cooling fans clean.**Sawdust is the enemy here. If the airflow gets choked, the lamp life drops fast. We’ve seen these things survive 24/7 shifts in the toughest shops, as long as they can breathe.